Friday, May 29, 2015

My take on the Glide Bait

"My take on the GlideBait" (S-Waver 168 & 200)

The S-Waver is my favorite lure. I'll usually start and stop with one every time I go fishing. Not because it my "go to" that gets them every time but because it's a great search-bait that's fun to fish. 

Running close to the surface, it can be visual, which is always more interesting than not and because of this, there are less hang ups. When you do hang up you can often retrieve the lure. 
Cover and structure avoidance isn't something I require in a lure, in fact, it's the opposite. The GlideBait's "S" motion makes coming close to things a challenge that's hard to pass up. And the fact that you can initiate the turn, well that's like a double dog dare ya. 
The turning and suspending qualities this bait offers can be fished at a slow rate of stall. The forward movement can be slowed down, keeping it in the strike zone for extended periods. 

Go for a walk subsurface, flash with quick turns, stall and suspend, about-face a follower, I can enjoy throwing this lure in a swimming pool. 

This lure also has the amazing ability to draw fish out into the open and follow, giving away their size and whereabouts. A fine search-bait attribute indeed.

"Slow your roll"

First, find the lures "Slow Roll". This is the most important retrieve aspect with any SwimBait. Your finding the slowest reel handle speed that you can turn, while still receiving action from the lure. (In this case, the side to side action) This retrieve requires the least amount of energy to pursue and it's non-threatening manner peaks curiosity in the predator.  
With a GlideBait, the slow roll can be manipulated further to enhance the side to side motion. Within the slow roll handle speed, slight fluctuations above and below this speed, per one revolution, will help to exaggerate the baits natural action. The slight fluctuations will initiate when the bait turns, (above) and the below will prolong the glide, widening the "S" motion. This will also enable you to know what the bait is doing when it is not visible.

"Dialing in the Slow Roll"

Standing up on a bluff wall, will help you to view your GlideBait's action just under the surface. Find the slowest speed you can reel while still getting the s-wavering action and remember the count per reel handle turn. It should be approximately 2-4 seconds per one reel handle revolution. Once this is achieved, try to enhance the action with slight fluctuations. 
The "slow roll" will get fish to track behind the bait in that same "s" motion. They will follow the bait all the way until it's about to come out of the water. There they will have to quickly decide to strike or pull off. So, stand back off the shoreline and never give up early at the end of a SwimBait retrieve.

Regardless if you can see a follower or not, a "Trigger Move" or escape move can be utilized to initiate a strike before the bait runs out of water at the end of a retrieve. Multiple "Trigger Moves" can be applied during a retrieve, if you see fit. But it's the "slow roll" that lulls them to follow and move in closer.
 
"Trigger Moves" from the slow roll you....

1) "Stop" and just let the bait fall to the bottom to rest on it's hooks. If this doesn't get bit, the follower should be right there eyeing the bait closely. A slight twitch or rise should trigger a strike. Be cautious not to move the bait too aggressively, spooking the fish.
2) "Double twitch" This will break the slow and steady rhythm of the retrieve with two quick tail kicks, in a fleeing action. Twitch in the same manner used in the "walk the dog" technique. Again, be wary of twitching too aggressively. 
3) "Pull Off" Raise Rod up and to the side at a slightly faster speed than the slow roll. Once you've pulled the bait off, point the Rod directly at the bait, while picking up the slack, ready for a hook set.
4) "Stutter Step" Once again you break the rhythm of the "Slow Roll" by introducing stops and starts with the reel handle, in a stuttering manner. 
5) "Reel Snap" Breaking a "slow roll" rhythm with a quick snap and stop of the reel handle will cause the bait to kick off to the side and glide. One or more sped up revolutions can be incorporated into the "Reel Snap" before the stop. 

"Summery"

The slow roll is the GlideBaits bread and butter. Don't get too fancy with all sorts of retrieves with erratic motions. The predictable, slow, steady, roll, peaks fish interest by being easy to catch and non-threatening. It will get followers AND bites more than all the other moves put together. When the slow roll is getting followers but no strikes, that's when trigger moves can be utilized. Still the transition from one to another should be subtle to remain non-threatening to the follower but just enough variation to initiate a strike. 

"More angles"

Once you feel you've got handle on the slow roll and a understanding of trigger moves, here are more ways to incorporate variation in your retrieves.

"Count down"

Getting familiar with the rate of fall of your GlideBait will enable you to fish at different levels of the water column. Count how long it takes your lure to sink, in seconds and one foot increments. Counting down enables you to repeat the same level success was achieved. So mix it up and find the level fish prefer that day, then repeat counting down to that level. 

"Bottom Feeder"

Not about finding easy women but letting the bait sink all the way to the bottom. The bait will sink horizontally and come to rest on its hooks. Like the slow roll, the slow sink of a GlideBait is easy to catch and non-threatening. Fish will observe this sickly behavior and come in for a closer look, sometimes eyeballing the bait on the bottom for periods of time.  Jolting the slack in the line or by just initiating the retrieve can garner a reaction strike from a curious hang-around. This can also be repeated multiple times for a underutilized GlideBait retrieve. 

"Shake it up"

If the slow nature of the GlideBait retrieve is putting you to sleep. Throw in a speed retrieve every once in a while to see if you can make them react. Fished like a Rip Bait, the Glide offers a different look in an upsized bait. 
Once your bait hits the water, start with 3 quick reel handle snaps, followed by a 2 count pause, repeat. 
This retrieve reminds me of speeding around on a BMX bike. You pedal hard maxing out the gearing and coast-rest until you slow down just enough for another pedal burst. The bait is kicking as hard as it can, like a startled snack, but it needs a second to catch its breath before kicking as hard as it can again. A predator see's this action as a maxed out baitfish. If it can get close to the fleeing bait, when it hesitates, it will make its move. During the pause, it gets hit hard. 

When retrieving any lure, especially a SwimBait, always be ready standing in the optimum hook-set position, right after the cast.

"Gear" 

Polarized glasses are a must with a GlideBait. Look behind the incoming bait for fish following it. It happens more than you'll know. (A bass can be spotted by the white when it opens its mouth or by seeing the dark mark on its tail, when it's kicking. Sometimes you just spot its shadow)

(168) Dobyns Rods 805 CBRM - This 8' Deep Crankbait Rod built specifically for professional Crankbait expert Randy McAbee is a monster. It's light tip, moderate/fast action and plenty of backbone is not your standard CB rod. It's not whippy or wimpy. It has the power to sink oversized crank treble hooks, while already being loaded up with the resistance of a deep diving bill. I find it to be perfect for the S-Waver 168. The tip offers the correct response to maximize the lures action and keeps fish pinned when close at hand. The rods strong backbone has the power dictate the fight and horse them in when needed. It's really a special rod that you must check out regardless if you're a deep cranker. It's a beefy long rod with a flexible tip, versatile enough for many applications.

Shimano Curado I 200 - Compliments the 805 perfectly. The distance it can achieve is remarkable. By upgrading to ceramic Boca bearings the distance is unbelievable and effortless. 

Line - Power Pro 40 lbs with a 7' 20 lbs shock leader of mono or fluoro if a little more depth is desired. The leaders stiffness helps keep the line from fouling on the lure, while offering shock relief. 

Speed clip - Spro Split Snap, size 2, 25 lb test. While still not perfect, this is the best speed clip I've found. Besides quick lure changes, a clip offers better lure movement, less knot wear and knot failure. By carefully tying your line to the snap, you're insured a properly tied knot through many lure changes. 

(200) Dobyns 806 MLSB - Once again, perfect action to load and cast the bait very far. The extended handle helps with the heavy weight of large SwimBait's. The power of this rod is deceiving. The lighter tip and backbone that comes on fast and strong drives hooks home even on sub-par hook sets. The lighter tip keeps big head shakes with big lures pinned. Since I switched to this rod, I've noticed my hook set and landing percentage is at 100% When big bait bites are few and far between, it's a must. 

Shimano Cardiff 300 - Affordable, line capacity, and gets the job done. A bearing upgrade noticeably effected casting distance and smoothness. This will have to do until the Calcutta D incorporates the SVS breaking system.

Power Pro 65 lb. 30 lb. fluoro shock leader. Helps lure from fouling 

Speed Clip - Spro Split Snap 1 45 lb. Better lure movement, knot wear, and less knot failure. 

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