Understandings crawfish patterns and coloration is key to big bites!

Understandings crawfish patterns and coloration is key to big bites!

I found this article by Jim Root on Bassmasters. It's a topic I been trying to gain a better understanding to form my own seasonal color preferences. (I added the pics and captions)

Early October pumpkin with orange tips.

There are very few people in the world who don’t throw jigs or other crawfish imitations when bass fishing. Some people have no less than three jigs tied at any given time on their boat. So what is it that makes them so deadly on bass, and how do you know what color to use? There has been a lot of research recently that says it’s not enough to throw a tube, you need to know the correct pattern.

Recently I came across a study which showed that 90% of the time bass will choose to eat crawfish over anything else because crawfish are extremely high in protein and very easy for bass to digest. So it’s not coincidence that people throw so many tubes, jigs, soft plastic baits with pinchers. This part is really not deniable. Anyone with a boat who’s had bass in their livewell will tell you that at some point bass have spit up crawfish. What gets tricky is when you start debating color, and if it matters.

Let’s start with what is universally true: craws do change color. In a study performed by the University of Michigan, Dr. Robert Thacker found that crawfish have red and blue photoreceptors. In lakes where blue-green light transmitted best, the craws were lighter in color. And in lakes where red light transmitted best, the craws were darker in color. There has also been clear data to support that swamp-like bottom composition results in very different coloration than rocky bottom lakes or tributaries. I’m not carrying around a spectrophotometer from lake to lake measuring the color intensity, but I do have a few traps that I’ll place at different points around the lake to collect samples of crawfish, which is ultimately the most effective way to match the hatch. This is really important to do because local bait shops often import what they sell from farms, where conditions can be completely different from what you’re fishing.

When they’ll change color is when they’re molting, or shedding their shell. This results from outgrowing the one they’d worn previously. This process has also been known to change the color entirely based on habitat. What researchers have found is that molting is initiated by a chemical that’s released in the body that’s been linked to the different phases of the moon. An article in Bassmaster Magazine had this to say about colors and moon phase: 3-4 days before and after a full moon throw brown and orange or olive and orange,black and red as you move further into the moon cycle, new moon nights should warrant dark brown and black, and to use black and blue as you move to a sickle moon.

So if you take all the data and combine it what you get is that crawfish are considered delicious by bass, they change color frequently during the different moon phases, with different color patterns per each section of water in each individual lake/river/pond. . go “match the hatch”!

        Full.                       Mid                             New.                       

Brown/Orange.       Black/Red.           Dark Brown/Black.      

Olive/Orange

    Sickle

  Black/Blue

This baby carrying mother had claws with bright red flake. (Early Nov.)

Dry Erase Markers for Swimbaits

Dry Erase 

         To add touch of realism and contrast to swimbaits, without turning it into an arts and crafts project, use a red "Dry Erase" marker to suggest gills. By drawing a fine line along the gill plate, swimbaits can benefit from another layer of detail. What is better than the pipe cleaner gills is, if you screw up or just don't like the effect it can be wiped off and the bait is no worse for wear. Crazy Glue hardens and tears away from the soft surrounding portion of the bait, eventually ruining it. The Dry Erase can be done quickly right before use. 

A black Sharpie will color a Hudd a dark purple and offers a different "Night Stalker" look that the fish haven't seen. (Segregation is acceptable for Sharpie will bleed onto other baits)

 

Tip - Wake Baits and Ambush Spots

               Here is a great technique for fishing Wake Baits from shore. Cast parallel to the shoreline, as close to the bank as possible and keep moving about 1/4-1/2 your casting distance each time after the retrieve is completed. 

You're using the bank to offer structure for a predator to use to trap its prey. Doing this offers predators more incentive to pursue your bait, Increasing its temptation. Cast into the wind so your bait is traveling down with the current generated. 

Work your way down the bank and in smaller venues, around the entire lake. 

Note the types of structure, cover and shoreline which held fish for future reference. 

A stick, boulder or even trash like a car tire can offer a predictable detour for bait, and a predator to capitalize. Wake the bait as close as you can past these types of anomalies. Go slow so the bait struggles to swim. Periodic stops suggest that the bait is tiring or dying. 

After moving down the bank, every 2-3 casts, you can cast behind you, along the shoreline, to see if you missed any. 

It's rare that a wakebait is effective just randomly casting to open water. Offering a ambush or funnel spot is part of the equation to any lures success. Once you get the familiar with identifying ambush spots, you can look for deeper ones and fish it with baits that run at those levels, all the way to the bottom.

I've included a link to a video that demonstrates the technique with a S-Waver glide-bait. A wakebait is the best way to learn the effectiveness of the concept because you can see the action as it unfolds.

https://youtu.be/oCv-uXPQViM

A nice post spawn bass that fell for a Live Target Pumpkinseed Wake Bait using this technique at night.

Improve Your Fishing Karma

          Confidence is huge. Misguided or not, confidence is an important factor when it comes to fishing. So this means that all fishermen are superstitious to an extent. That's why we ask "any luck?" Because without luck, it would mean we're just not good and that could never be the case. 

Now I'm the type of person whom without bad luck, I wouldn't have much luck at all. So if there's a reasonable way I might improve my luck, I'll do it. 

I have a secret tip on improving luck and I'll share it with you. I know others whom have adopted this ritual as well. Because let's face it, sometimes it's better to be lucky than good.

When I'm having a bad day fishing and feeling like I should have stayed in bed. Instead of acting like I'm never fishing again, I'll just call it a day and start to pick up spent fishing trash. Just grab a bag, (I try to always have one in my tackle) and fill it up and dispose of it properly. Its disgusting, I know, disgusting how quickly the bag is filled. 

People who fish with me know how much fishing trash bothers me. It's just so disrespectful it boggles the mind. In my lifetime of fishing, I'm sure I've created trash too. So I pick up more than my share. I also figure it's harder for people to litter in a clean place. It doesn't take long to notice the difference at your fishing spots either. 

Another added bonus is all the stuff you find. My buddy found a Roman Made Negotiator, another found a Deps 250, and I've found many Hudds and Damascus blade pocket knife that I still have and think is very cool. (Valued @ $200) 

I swear that it's almost guaranteed that you will "have luck" on the next outing. It all depends on what you already owe. 

Remember to give it a try and see for yourself what good fishing Karma can do. You already know what confidence can do. 

Fishing Goals - Personal Best

             It's a good idea to set some fishing goals every year. Small steps to improve on weaknesses, avoid complacency, and further yourself down the right path towards your "personal best". New techniques, places to go, things to aquire, numbers to surpass. Here's another example of a fishing goal and its benefits. 

Having a goal to "assist others", too often, is overlooked. When a fellow fisherman (stranger or friend) catches a nice fish, possibly the fish of their lifetime, take the time to offer any assistance they may need to document their expirience. 

Most of us carry a scale and camera, just in case we catch that trophy we're after. They may not be prepared (as you or I) for this occurrence. If needed, snap a good photo and weigh it for them. Explain the correct handling procedure to ensure a clean release. (See proper handling blog) This could be that persons "fish changing expirience" so lead by example. 

Taking the time to help another enjoy the fruits of their labor fishing, not only helps them, it helps the sport that we enjoy so much, ultimately effecting you in the process.

It will minimize the stress on the fish, by limiting time out of the water, for a better chance of survival.  (Preservation)

It helps a fellow fisherman to capture a precious moment they will carry with them for the rest of their life. (Etiquette)

It will help you gain insight on the circumstances surounding the trophy catch. (Knowledge)

Plus, it will help your fishing Karma by paying it forward, hopefully starting a positive ripple effect. (Influence)

Ones "personal best" goes well beyond a number to be achieved. Its what you do, how you live, and its how you will be remembered. 

Now that's a goal to fish for.

6th Sense Flow Glide Modifications

         According to my scale, the Flow Glide ranks high in the GlideBait category. It's Shad shape offers a different look that is a welcome addition to the trout shapes of our Glide collections.

It swims well but also "feels" good. The resistance it has on the retrieve constantly reminds me of the lures action and that a "reaction move" is only a rip or two away. It's a livelier swimmer than other glide baits, and its increased surface resistance turns out a lower rate of stall. This action sells the Shad theme.

I felt the tail looked a bit cheesy for a bait at this price point, so I tried one of the many spare S-Waver 168 tails that are lying around. After a few cuts, shaves and drilling a hole, it's got a smooth, more refined look that matches the rest of the bait. Now the tail doesn't take away from the clean, transparent, fine detail of  paint and finish. Fish on!

  

Since I wrote the above blog, I had an un-usual defect happen to this bait. 

It apparently built up pressure inside the bait and caused it to "inflate", splitting the back. A fine hard plastic membrane still keeps water out but if it keeps building up pressure, it will eventually pop. Now I've never had anything like this happen to a bait before and wouldn't have believed a hard bait could even do this. 

I happen to have a background in gas and chemical delivery systems and suspect that a chemical used in the plastic is off-gassing to its own vapor pressure, which is high enough cause the hard plastic to "inflate". 

I contacted 6th Sense and was surprised that Casey Sobczak himself fielded the email. I figured that something of this nature would be a glitch in the manufacturing process and this wouldn't be an isolated incident. After sending pictures of the lure, he was "standoffish" and suggested that I subjected the lure to high temperatures via car, sun, or both. Knowing that nothing other than normal circumstances were subjected to this lure as well as the rest of my tackle, I got on the defensive and started to write back that I was an adult and didn't appreciate the accusation of wrongdoing etc.

Before I replied he wrote back saying he would replace the lure immediately and sent a new one. He didn't even ask for the lure to be sent back to investigate what had happened. 

Anyway, I was relieved that a replacement was on the way. At $60 I felt I had to contact the company with my concern. 

Later that week I was telling a fishing friend how pleased I was with 6th Sense customer service when he had an puzzled look on his face. "I just had the same thing happen one of their crank baits". He showed me the brand new deep diver with the split back and told me he had just bought it. 

So I suspect there may be some bugs to be worked out at 6th Sense manufacturing.

I think their lineup is very promising and cutting edge in the finish department. I think they want all their customers to be satisfied and they are in this for the long haul. I hope they get this figured out soon because 6th Sense is poised to become a major force in lure manufacturing. 

Continued #3

So I had the bait sitting around a while. It's holding the pressure so I take it out again to see the floating action. It twitches good on the surface, darting from side to side and when you reel steadily the slope of the back causes it to diver under just below the surface. It can glide off to a side and then slowly rise back to the surface. 

It looks pretty good when I see a fish materialize beneath the lure and hit it. A good 3 1/2 lber tells me the lure still works and can be used differently. And I may have the only one.....

So I brush on a little clear 5 min. epoxy over the split and now I have the only floating Flowglide I know of. I like it. Time will tell if the fish do.......

My take on the Glide Bait

"My take on the GlideBait" (S-Waver 168 & 200)

The S-Waver is my favorite lure. I'll usually start and stop with one every time I go fishing. Not because it my "go to" that gets them every time but because it's a great search-bait that's fun to fish. 

Running close to the surface, it can be visual, which is always more interesting than not and because of this, there are less hang ups. When you do hang up you can often retrieve the lure. 

Cover and structure avoidance isn't something I require in a lure, in fact, it's the opposite. The GlideBait's "S" motion makes coming close to things a challenge that's hard to pass up. And the fact that you can initiate the turn, well that's like a double dog dare ya. 

The turning and suspending qualities this bait offers can be fished at a slow rate of stall. The forward movement can be slowed down, keeping it in the strike zone for extended periods. 

Go for a walk subsurface, flash with quick turns, stall and suspend, about-face a follower, I can enjoy throwing this lure in a swimming pool. 

This lure also has the amazing ability to draw fish out into the open and follow, giving away their size and whereabouts. A fine search-bait attribute indeed.

"Slow your roll"

First, find the lures "Slow Roll". This is the most important retrieve aspect with any SwimBait. Your finding the slowest reel handle speed that you can turn, while still receiving action from the lure. (In this case, the side to side action) This retrieve requires the least amount of energy to pursue and it's non-threatening manner peaks curiosity in the predator.  

With a GlideBait, the slow roll can be manipulated further to enhance the side to side motion. Within the slow roll handle speed, slight fluctuations above and below this speed, per one revolution, will help to exaggerate the baits natural action. The slight fluctuations will initiate when the bait turns, (above) and the below will prolong the glide, widening the "S" motion. This will also enable you to know what the bait is doing when it is not visible.

"Dialing in the Slow Roll"

Standing up on a bluff wall, will help you to view your GlideBait's action just under the surface. Find the slowest speed you can reel while still getting the s-wavering action and remember the count per reel handle turn. It should be approximately 2-4 seconds per one reel handle revolution. Once this is achieved, try to enhance the action with slight fluctuations. 

The "slow roll" will get fish to track behind the bait in that same "s" motion. They will follow the bait all the way until it's about to come out of the water. There they will have to quickly decide to strike or pull off. So, stand back off the shoreline and never give up early at the end of a SwimBait retrieve.

Regardless if you can see a follower or not, a "Trigger Move" or escape move can be utilized to initiate a strike before the bait runs out of water at the end of a retrieve. Multiple "Trigger Moves" can be applied during a retrieve, if you see fit. But it's the "slow roll" that lulls them to follow and move in closer.

 

"Trigger Moves" from the slow roll you....

1) "Stop" and just let the bait fall to the bottom to rest on it's hooks. If this doesn't get bit, the follower should be right there eyeing the bait closely. A slight twitch or rise should trigger a strike. Be cautious not to move the bait too aggressively, spooking the fish.

2) "Double twitch" This will break the slow and steady rhythm of the retrieve with two quick tail kicks, in a fleeing action. Twitch in the same manner used in the "walk the dog" technique. Again, be wary of twitching too aggressively. 

3) "Pull Off" Raise Rod up and to the side at a slightly faster speed than the slow roll. Once you've pulled the bait off, point the Rod directly at the bait, while picking up the slack, ready for a hook set.

4) "Stutter Step" Once again you break the rhythm of the "Slow Roll" by introducing stops and starts with the reel handle, in a stuttering manner. 

5) "Reel Snap" Breaking a "slow roll" rhythm with a quick snap and stop of the reel handle will cause the bait to kick off to the side and glide. One or more sped up revolutions can be incorporated into the "Reel Snap" before the stop. 

"Summery"

The slow roll is the GlideBaits bread and butter. Don't get too fancy with all sorts of retrieves with erratic motions. The predictable, slow, steady, roll, peaks fish interest by being easy to catch and non-threatening. It will get followers AND bites more than all the other moves put together. When the slow roll is getting followers but no strikes, that's when trigger moves can be utilized. Still the transition from one to another should be subtle to remain non-threatening to the follower but just enough variation to initiate a strike. 

"More angles"

Once you feel you've got handle on the slow roll and a understanding of trigger moves, here are more ways to incorporate variation in your retrieves.

"Count down"

Getting familiar with the rate of fall of your GlideBait will enable you to fish at different levels of the water column. Count how long it takes your lure to sink, in seconds and one foot increments. Counting down enables you to repeat the same level success was achieved. So mix it up and find the level fish prefer that day, then repeat counting down to that level. 

"Bottom Feeder"

Not about finding easy women but letting the bait sink all the way to the bottom. The bait will sink horizontally and come to rest on its hooks. Like the slow roll, the slow sink of a GlideBait is easy to catch and non-threatening. Fish will observe this sickly behavior and come in for a closer look, sometimes eyeballing the bait on the bottom for periods of time.  Jolting the slack in the line or by just initiating the retrieve can garner a reaction strike from a curious hang-around. This can also be repeated multiple times for a underutilized GlideBait retrieve. 

"Shake it up"

If the slow nature of the GlideBait retrieve is putting you to sleep. Throw in a speed retrieve every once in a while to see if you can make them react. Fished like a Rip Bait, the Glide offers a different look in an upsized bait. 

Once your bait hits the water, start with 3 quick reel handle snaps, followed by a 2 count pause, repeat. 

This retrieve reminds me of speeding around on a BMX bike. You pedal hard maxing out the gearing and coast-rest until you slow down just enough for another pedal burst. The bait is kicking as hard as it can, like a startled snack, but it needs a second to catch its breath before kicking as hard as it can again. A predator see's this action as a maxed out baitfish. If it can get close to the fleeing bait, when it hesitates, it will make its move. During the pause, it gets hit hard. 

When retrieving any lure, especially a SwimBait, always be ready standing in the optimum hook-set position, right after the cast.

"Gear" 

Polarized glasses are a must with a GlideBait. Look behind the incoming bait for fish following it. It happens more than you'll know. (A bass can be spotted by the white when it opens its mouth or by seeing the dark mark on its tail, when it's kicking. Sometimes you just spot its shadow)

(168) Dobyns Rods 805 CBRM - This 8' Deep Crankbait Rod built specifically for professional Crankbait expert Randy McAbee is a monster. It's light tip, moderate/fast action and plenty of backbone is not your standard CB rod. It's not whippy or wimpy. It has the power to sink oversized crank treble hooks, while already being loaded up with the resistance of a deep diving bill. I find it to be perfect for the S-Waver 168. The tip offers the correct response to maximize the lures action and keeps fish pinned when close at hand. The rods strong backbone has the power dictate the fight and horse them in when needed. It's really a special rod that you must check out regardless if you're a deep cranker. It's a beefy long rod with a flexible tip, versatile enough for many applications.

Shimano Curado I 200 - Compliments the 805 perfectly. The distance it can achieve is remarkable. By upgrading to ceramic Boca bearings the distance is unbelievable and effortless. 

Line - Power Pro 40 lbs with a 7' 20 lbs shock leader of mono or fluoro if a little more depth is desired. The leaders stiffness helps keep the line from fouling on the lure, while offering shock relief. 

Speed clip - Spro Split Snap, size 2, 25 lb test. While still not perfect, this is the best speed clip I've found. Besides quick lure changes, a clip offers better lure movement, less knot wear and knot failure. By carefully tying your line to the snap, you're insured a properly tied knot through many lure changes. 

(200) Dobyns 806 MLSB - Once again, perfect action to load and cast the bait very far. The extended handle helps with the heavy weight of large SwimBait's. The power of this rod is deceiving. The lighter tip and backbone that comes on fast and strong drives hooks home even on sub-par hook sets. The lighter tip keeps big head shakes with big lures pinned. Since I switched to this rod, I've noticed my hook set and landing percentage is at 100% When big bait bites are few and far between, it's a must. 

Shimano Cardiff 300 - Affordable, line capacity, and gets the job done. A bearing upgrade noticeably effected casting distance and smoothness. This will have to do until the Calcutta D incorporates the SVS breaking system.

Power Pro 65 lb. 30 lb. fluoro shock leader. Helps lure from fouling 

Speed Clip - Spro Split Snap 1 45 lb. Better lure movement, knot wear, and less knot failure. 

What with this obsession for fishing? (Trout farms & Koi ponds)

What's with this obsession for fishing? (Trout farms & Koi ponds)

            When I was very young, while visiting my cousins in LA, my uncle took us to get some fish for dinner. As kids, you couldn't get us to eat a frozen fish stick but we were happy to go along for the ride. 

To our surprise, we didn't go to the market. We drove out to a place where we walked across a little rope bridge, over some water, to enter a small shack. This old man was behind a counter smiling. We thought we were maybe at Disneyland or something but it turned out to be a trout farm. 

I then saw a bunch of cement ponds, that were made to look somewhat natural and I made a B-line towards them. My uncle was saying "wait" while he was getting some bamboo poles from a rack but I had to see what was swirling around like a kalidiscope in the water. 

Ducking under the rope that surrounded the ponds, I was on my hands and knees watching the school of trout swimming by. My reflection on the water cut the glare and I could clearly see the fish's eye's, mouths opening, black dots and the red stripe down their sides. I just sat there in amazement, as if I could never tire of looking into the water to see what lived under the surface.

My attention was interrupted when I heard my uncle shout, "don't eat it!" to my little cousin Vicki. He was pouring some pellets in her and James' hands, that he just got out of a gum ball machine. We were confused because those red machines always gave out colorful candy treats but these green candies smelled awful. "These are for the fish, watch" and he tossed them into the air. The water erupted as the trout went into a feeding frenzy that sprayed a mist and caused waves to hit the sides of the pond. 

I was delighted while my cousins looked a bit frightened. They just nervously tossed their handful in and retreated behind uncle as the frenzy erupted again, more concerned with the smell on their hands. 

I wanted to make mine last so I tossed them one by one, making each pellet count. Luring them closer to me, I got them to snatch pellets out of my fingers. My cousins looked terrified that I was gonna lose a finger but with each vicious bite, I looked back at them giggling. I was having the time of my life but then it got even better. 

My uncle handed us bamboo fishing poles and before he could finish instructing us how to carefully bait the hook, I caught a trout without the bait. He was unhooking my fish and placing it a plastic bag and James and Vicki both pulled up fish. My poor uncle was wrangling fish with three kids holding them up in the air while they thrashed and flicked water on him. He'd remove one and we'd catch another before he could get to the next. "We only need six fish, so two a piece", my uncle said. 

How nobody got impelled that day was pure luck. 

After paying for about dozen trout and their cleaning from inside the shack, my uncle announced that it was time to go. 

We were still by the ponds on our hands and knees watching fish, trying to figure out why these ones were called catfish. Maybe they eat cats? That ones got a big enough mouth. Maybe they feed them to cats because who would want to eat such an ugly fish?

I'm sure I would've had to have been dragged out of there if not for the promise to come back if we were good. 

From then on, every time we visited our relatives, I would beg for trout dinner, so we'd get to visit "Happy Jacks Trout Farm". (Although It would be years before I would actually eat fish)  

That night I went to sleep dreaming of catching a big fish. Today with all of life's problems, worries, and regrets weighing heavily on ones mind, the thought of catching the next big fish, takes you back to a time when life was simple, everything was new and full of possibilities, luck was still a good thing and you couldn't wait for tomorrow to come.

Fishing can be whatever the person chooses. Basic or technical, expensive or not, hurried or laid back. You can do it with friends or go alone. Day or night. Heck you don't even have to catch anything to have a good time. It can merely be an escape. A break from all the madness and I time to reflect. It is all up to you what it means and how far you wanna take it. Whatever makes you happy fishing, pursue it. It's about experience's not numbers. 

"Frontier Village" 

I'm going to date myself. There was this park in San Jose called Frontier Village. It was a western era type of amusement park. No rides, per se, but Wild West reanactments could bust out anytime, stage coach robberies and what not. It was a fun play ground place for children's b-day parties and company functions. 

One year, Frontier Village announced they had opened a trout farm attraction. From my prior experience at Happy Jack's, I knew what a trout farm meant. I was in the 4th grade now and we were going to Moms company picnic tomorrow, which was always at Frontier Village. A friend and I whom were just getting into fishing locally, were plotting how we were going to catch the fish. We had a few lures between us and we were bringing them. 

When we got to the park the next day, after helping with the picnic stuff, we were finally cut loose. We ran over to the trout farm and just observed how it was ran. We watched people catching fish and then paying for them by weight. If a fish was over fifteen inches, it was free. I didn't have any money so we were just going to hang out inside there. We'd get a few pebbles, and drop them into the water. The trout would pounce on them but then spit them out. 

My friend had just enough money to pay for one caught fish, so he had a shot at a 15"+ (free) and if he didn't catch one, he could pay. The park used a cane pole with a small double frog hook, which you put corn kernels on for bait. (This was odd to us) He removed the hook and tied on a crappie jig that he brought. There was no need for any lure or bait, the trout would hit anything. He waited to seek out a fifteen plus inch trout. Once we located one he tried to catch it. Placing the jig in front of the trout, for a split second, it seemed too easy. But before the bigger trout could eat the jig, a smaller fish would come and snatch it up. He had hooked a fish that had to be payed for. He tried to let it become unhooked but it was on there good. A park employee quickly acknowledged he had caught a fish and bagged it, so it was game over and he would have to pay. He was a little disappointed and left to put it in the cooler back at the picnic area.

I was still going to hang around in the trout farm area. I wanted to catch a fish too but with no money, I thought of how I could still have some fun. I went to the cashier area and spied a pencil on the counter. I pulled the erasure off the pencil and put the pencil back. I grabbed a cane pole and put the erasure over the hooks. I put it in the water and the fish would grab it. When I lifted the fish up, it would let go and fall back into the water. I did this over and over, never hooking a fish. A  park employee tried to offer me assistance but I insisted "I got it!" so he wouldn't see the erasure. 

I noticed that the fish would eat the erasure but then spit it out once they realized it wasn't food. This gave me an idea. 

I used the bare hook and when a smaller fish grabbed it, I gave it slack until it spit it out. Another fish would then grab it and do the same. So I waited until a big fish grabbed the bare hook and then set on it. I pulled the big fish up and a park employee quickly grabbed it. I was nervous because I wasn't sure if it was over fifteen inches and if it wasn't, I didn't have any money to pay for it. The worker who grabbed it measured it, then announced "we got a free one!" I was feeling good. They cleaned the fish for me and put it in a bag and wrote "free" on it. I ran back to the picnic area with my prized fish. 

I have never been a gambler or enjoyed casinos. To me it's just a waste of money. I'd rather go and buy something instead of gambling that I would double my money or whatever. 

There is a element of gambling in fishing. You weigh the odds against the rewards in a different way. I am addicted to this type of gambling. I'm just glad they don't have fishing casinos.

"Koi Ponds"

 

My father was from Gilroy Ca. where my grandfather first grew garlic, on our ranch property, which Gilroy is known for. The house was of real Japanese architecture. It was part of a display at the worlds fair in 1942, which my grandfather purchased after the fair was over. The ranch house had a beautiful garden complete with a koi pond. Apparently my grandmother was homesick for Japan so my grandfather did his best to bring Japan within the fenced area surrounding the home. 

When I was growing up, I would take a bamboo pole, attach string, and a bent needle for a hook. With some bread I would catch the koi and temporarily detain them in a container, to look at, before putting them back. When I saw a pond with fish in it, I naturally thought of catching the fish. 

Later in life, I would learn that "Koi" are symbols of love and affection in Japan and their wellbeing is the purpose of the pond. My aunt must have been horrified to see me out there, having a great time catching the koi. But to my defense, most were in double digits with a few in the twenty plus range.

These are my earliest fishing experiences. I still have a strong love and affection for fishing. I don't need to catch anything to enjoy doing it. It keeps my ADHD mind occupied and I can think about issues in depth. It can take me back in time, remembering the people whom are no longer with us. When it's time to leave and I say, "last cast", I'll do one for each person whom I miss being gone. My dad never fished but he took me anytime I asked. He didn't understand why I enjoyed it so much. Perhaps he is with me now when I fish. And still cannot understand why I enjoy it so much. If it's possible, I'm sure I'll still be hanging around all places I loved to fish, when I'm gone. I just can't seem to ever get enough.

Tuning a Hudd

How to tune a Hudd. (Copied from some site)

I don’t know about you but from time to time when I started using a new Huddleston Deluxe, either the 8 inch or 6 inch version sometimes they won’t run true. Recently I had a friend express the same concern with the 6 inch version asking me if I knew how to correct the problem. I decided to go straight to the source so I gave Ken Huddleston a call to ask him his opinion. First off let me say that Ken is a standup guy, he has a wealth of information and is very willing to help.

Of course you know there are 2 different versions of the Hudd, Weedless and Exposed Hook and they are tuned differently.

On the weedless version there is an air pocket in the top that keeps it buoyant. It is close to the hook “Slit” and what can happen is the hook can puncture this pocket allowing water to get in and throw its balance off. To remedy this squeeze any water out and allow to dry. Look for a hook hole around pocket and put in a drop of Mend It or use some Huddlebond to seal the hole thereby not allowing water to enter and keeping it buoyant, allow to dry, presto, problem solved.

For the exposed hook version there is an internal lead weight on the underside. What you want to do is hold the Hudd by holding the bend in the hook, feel for the lead down towards the bottomn under the hook. Look at the picture below and you can see the lead weight I’m talking about, its on the bottom. The thing towards the top of the lure is a hard foam that acts as a ballast. If your Hudd is running to the left bend the lead VERY SLIGHTLY to the left, yes opposite of how you tune a crankbait. Test it out and repeat as needed, he stressed to me that they do not take very much to adjust them so be sure to make very minor adjustments at a time. This tuning technique works for both the 6 inch and 8 inch versions

I have had people tell me to boil them to get them to run true, according to Ken, boiling them works if your baits are slightly warped, especially the tail. The main reasons for warped baits is because they are generally stored wrong, hanging on your rod in the rod locker for a week or not being placed flat when storing them. I know I had a weedless one that was attached to a rod for a week and the line guide on the rod pressed against the bait and it took the form of the guide, after which it didn’t run true. Ken said to tie a line or wire to the hook eye and dip them into the boiling water for about 30 seconds then hang to dry at room temperature. After I did this and the Hudd ran great without any tracking issues.

There ya go, straight from the man, hope that helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask.

10 DIY Swimbait Hacks

       The Lucky Craft "Bi-Gill" - To temporarily make an LC Real BG into a GlideBait, use clear packaging tape to close the tail joint. (Approx. 1"x 1" on both sides, shape tape to bait) Now it offers two types of swim signatures. (think big Giron) Now call it the "Bi-Gill" because it now swims both ways 

Now I know that tape sounds crude but it is a simple way to experiment how a jointed Swimbait might react without a joint or two. A drop or two of superglue will hold it together for a longer period, but it can still be separated if you don't use too much.

Bi-Gill

2) A simple way to enhance the Huddleston (or any Swimbait) by adding contrast and visual depth. Use a red "Dry-Erase" pen to suggest gills. (Don't use Sharpie) It (D-E) is not permanent unless you want it to be by coating with a Mend-it type of glue. (I prefer to reapply pen when needed) It doesn't interfere with the integrity of the bait. Oils from new baits may require pen drying time between attempts. (*Matt Allen, Mike Long)

Dry Erase Pen Gills

3) A black Sharpie CAN be used to make a "NightStalker". It colors the bait a dark purple. It WILL bleed onto other baits until it has fully saturated into the bait permanently. (This is the only time segregation is recommended and acceptable) I have also made a Hudd Sucker by drawing stripes down the sides and back. When the Long Nose Suckers are spawning they will flock to the creek inlets. (Late winter/Early Spring) look for ambush spots along the way. (*Ken Huddleston)

Hudd made from a mold and old Senkos 

 

Black Sharpie

4) Spro 6" (floater or slow sink) knocker mod. The 6" fast sink is the only Spro 6" that has a knocker in the tail. By drilling up to the hinge pin, with a slightly larger diam. bit, the pin slides out. If the pin has been bent, drill again from opposite side and push it out. A knocker tail can now be switched onto a knocker-less bait. Silicone calk can be used to patch the holes drilled or a permanent epoxy.  

The added weight of the knocker causes the floating version to swim slightly lower or just under the surface. Lighter wire split-rings or hook can counter this. 

Spro Floater w/ Tail knocker Mod.

More Spro 6" mods. If you have a old 6" floating model ready to be retired, try these hacks to make them into different baits. 

Remove the joint pin from tail joint and remove tail. Use wire cutters to remove the female sides of the joint and glue the tail and back sections together, making it a single joint bait. (the first or middle joint still remaining) 

5) Use dremol tool disk cutter to cut a slit under the head of the bait (inline with the eyes) up to the bottom jaw. This is where a lip will be inserted. (Note- the angle will determine the amount of dive) A guitar pick with its tip ground or cut squarely off, to fit into slot you cut under the head (cut or grind until the pick fills the entire slot) can now be glued into place.

This is a poor mans version of a 3:16 Wake Jr. - Keep in mind you want a blunt lip so the bait struggles near the surface, instead of diving down deep. (See wake Jr. angle) (*Mickey Ellis)

Weak Attempt. Lip angle caused it to dive.

6) Using the tail joint removal method can also make the Spro 6" into a single joint GlideBait, floating or sinking, though I haven't thoroughly tested the results as of yet. 

7) This method can also be used to add another section, making a larger bait. (*Joe Bruce)

8) Hudd 6" top hook mod. By using 2 oval split-rings you can connect a treble hook "Butch style" to the line tie. (hook line tie vertical) This was done to a top hook bait with hook damage. (* Butch)

6" BB w/ wire hook.

9) When a treble hook breaks during the "Butch Brown" method. I use wire (used to secure motorcycle grips to handlebars) twisted around the hook shaft, bent over and down, in between, the two remaining hook points. Continue the bend and secure wire with Super Glue. Then cut the wire to make the "hook" that secures it into the skin of the bait. This wire can now be inserted and pushed against the ballast, further bending the wire for a secure hold.

It holds the hook better on top of the bait because it can be bent after being inserted. It tears less when it's pulled out by a fish. Broken hooks are not wasted. And it's easier to break a hook than bend and cut it just right. (*Butch)

10) A line-thru SwimBait where the hook is positioned on the bottom of the bait easily hangs up. The line can be made to thread strait to the top of the bait with the use of a coffee stir straw. Cut the straw at an angle making the end sharp. Carefully insert the spit lubed straw up and out, to where you would like the hook to be attached on the top of the bait. Super Glue both protruding ends of the straw lightly and then slide the straw back and forth to spread glue into the bait on both ends. Cut straw flush on both ends once glue has dried. Because some baits insert directly into the weight, you may have to use the original line insert hole out the bottom. Use the straw again to easily re-direct the line back up to where you want to tie the treble on the top. The straw makes this easy to do on the fly. For a solid Swim-bait that requires a weighted swimbait hook, it can be made line-thru if desired. Use the straw method out the top of the bait, then add a tungsten nail weight into the bottom of the bait for the keel. Straw and keel weights must be centered perfectly to ensure the bait runs strait. (*Jason Borofka,  Mike Long)

Line redirected to top w/ coffee straw.

All of these crude hacks were derived from either, parts of ideas borrowed from others *, out of necessity, or wanting them to be made. More SB hacks to come.

"Evolve or Die!"

"Evolve or Die!"

     I've been haunting these waters for a long time. It's impossible for me to not come in with preconceived ideas. Memories dictate what I'm doing. Even what I remember others doing, plays its part. This can be described as "insight" or "baggage". As open minded as I would like to think I am, I usually go through the rolodex of past experiences, grabbing the same ol' things every time. This thinking can inevitably bring success at the lowest percentage possible. 

How the heck am I supposed to learn if I think I already know everything? This thought was brought on by the "AA" example of insanity, "doing the same things over and over, expecting different results".

Fly fishing taught me to get on the water, poke around a bit with a net and take samples, then try to "match the hatch". My OCD tendencies require me to be all set up and dialed in before leaving the house, when I know I'm "putting the horse before the cart".

Fishing has confirmed to me how "outta wack" this world of ours is spinning. Two past decades of ocean happenings tells me that this is a different world we're living in. Fish seem to be about as confused as I am regarding the whole reproduction process. Records are suddenly being broken daily regarding weather, animals, people. Serious changes are happening world wide, yet still I find myself digging deeper into my past experiences', only to be left feeling clueless. 

I've been fortunate enough to have fished quite a few private ponds in the past. Ones that have never been fished before and were stocked with hatchery fish. I remember how practically anything would work at first, so we would fish topwater. We'd be killin' it for a time but eventually the strikes would slow as they became conditioned to the bait and technique as something not to be eaten. When a popper stopped being effective, we'd have to then go to something like a floating Jerk bait, and so on. The lures would continue down in depth and speed, to a weightless rubber worm. Everything could still work in the right situation, optimum conditions and/or right presentation. But the bass definitely learned quickly that there's no more free meals. This seemed to be passed on to their offspring as well, because never again did these techniques work like they did the first time. 

So everything needs to be innovative or refined or in optimum conditions. And constantly adapting and evolving to the feedback we are receiving. 

Drop Shot, Wacked & Neko Rigs, Chatter Baits and big Swimbait's have also taught me about conditioning and that new approaches need to be applied. We have to remind ourselves that every year more and more people populate the world. More people are throwing at that fish before and after my presentation. The bass's own will to survive forces them to "evolve or die". The fish are still there but much like children today, they're maturing and getting smarter, faster, every year. Meanwhile, some of us are still trying to figure out how to use our darn cell phones. 

So we can't get locked into certain technique's that we favor. They need to be refined, applied in new ways, and ever changing. What has become "the new rage" will have an expiration date. It will work when the conditions are right but never again like it did the first time around. 

I remember this time when I took a free-spirited girlfriend along for a few casts. (She had never fished before) We were at the point where we needed some time apart and we were easily getting on each others nerves. We both had Senko set ups and she was chucking and winding away without a care in the world. She wasn't hurting anything and was content just being outdoors. Though I knew better, I suggested that she might want to try letting it sit on the bottom. She gave me the "you're such a jerk" look and said "you do it your way and I'm gonna do it my way". While there's no happy ending here, when I think about it, the fish determine what's right or wrong. Maybe they missed the Senko edition of MasterBaiter Magazine? And I can't really say I've ever even tried it.(her way)

So don't be afraid to try new things, even if they make you laugh.(A-rig) Don't dismiss anything as "not doing it right"(Wacky) and don't be afraid to combine aspects of any techniques' (DS) And when you figure out "the next new rage" don't be so quick to let it out of the bag. Because all things in this world will come to pass. 

Once you can free your mind, "why didn't I think of that?" might be replaced with, "why didn't I ever try that?" BTW, the Senko WAS intended to be a jerk bait.